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The Building Across From Tamayo Sat Empty for Three Years. This Month, It Finally Fills In.

The Building Across From Tamayo Sat Empty for Three Years. This Month, It Finally Fills In.

For most of the last three years, the storefront at 1401 Larimer Street has been the kind of empty that Larimer Square regulars stopped noticing. It used to be a Ted's Montana Grill. Then it wasn't anything. You'd walk past it on your way to dinner at Tamayo across the street, or to Rioja, and the dark windows just became part of the block's furniture.

That changes this fall. Frank Bonanno, the chef who opened Mizuna twenty-five years ago and has been a fixture of Denver's dining scene since before most of Larimer Square's current tenants existed, is putting an Italian-Japanese concept called Rōmyō into that exact space. He's been previewing the menu at Mizuna itself through pop-up dinners, including a porcini fusilli lunghi with uni garlic emulsion and a miso-roasted salmon over polenta, ahead of an opening the restaurant was eyeing for August.

That single fact would be a nice bit of neighborhood trivia on its own. What makes it worth paying attention to is that it isn't isolated. At the same moment Rōmyō is filling Larimer Square's most visible gap, two other long-underused Denver addresses are getting the same treatment, and in each case it's an operator with an existing track record, not a first-time concept testing the market. That's the real story of Denver's fall dining season: not growth for its own sake, but proven names finally willing to bet on specific spaces that sat quiet.

The Same Building, Twice

Walk two miles northeast to 3463 Walnut Street in RiNo, and you'll find the Edit building doing something similar in miniature. Chef Andrea Frizzi, who built Il Posto and later opened Vero Italian inside Denver Central Market, is bringing a stripped-down, affordable Italian concept called Risica into the building, with a menu of pizzas, charcuterie, and small plates designed to stay at twenty dollars or under. The signature item is a portafoglio sandwich, pizza dough shaped into a circle, folded over, and cooked before being filled with mortadella, stracciatella, and pistachios. Risica was aiming to open by the end of August.

Sharing that same building is MAKFam II, an expansion from Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen, the husband-and-wife team behind the Baker neighborhood's MAKFam, a Michelin Bib Gourmand-recognized restaurant with a following loyal enough that food blogs have been chasing scraps of information out of the permit process for months. The couple hasn't announced details publicly yet, but what's known is that the new space is bigger, with a bigger kitchen and likely a larger menu than the original.

Two kitchens from two different, already-proven Denver chefs choosing the same building isn't a coincidence worth shrugging off. It's a signal about where operators think RiNo's Walnut Street corridor is actually headed this year, as distinct from the RiNo hype of five years ago.

The Ramble Hotel's Third Chapter

The pattern holds a few blocks over at 1250 25th Street, inside the Ramble Hotel. Soda Club, a fresh-pasta and natural wine bar whose original East Village, New York location has earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition four times, is taking over the space vacated by Super Mega Bien earlier this year. Chef Jon Robbins, previously of the now-closed Bistro Barbes, is coming on as chef de cuisine. The opening is planned for sometime in September, which means it lands right as the other two projects are settling into their own openings.

Here's the useful way to hold these three facts together: Rōmyō, Risica and MAKFam II, and Soda Club are not three unrelated restaurant openings that happened to cluster near Labor Day. They're three operators with existing reputations choosing to reopen spaces that had gone quiet, within a few weeks of each other, in three different pockets of central Denver. If you're trying to read where the city's dining energy is actually concentrating this fall, follow the addresses that were empty, not the ones that were never in question.

Restaurant Location Operator's track record Status as of late August
Rōmyō 1401 Larimer St, Larimer Square Frank Bonanno, Mizuna (25 years) Was eyeing an August opening
Risica 3463 Walnut St, RiNo's Edit building Andrea Frizzi, Il Posto and Vero Italian Targeting end of August
MAKFam II 3463 Walnut St, RiNo's Edit building Kenneth Wan and Doris Yuen, MAKFam in Baker No confirmed date yet
Soda Club 1250 25th St, the Ramble Hotel Original NYC East Village location, four-time Bib Gourmand Planned for September

There's a smaller, quieter version of the same story a few blocks from Cheesman Park, where the cafe long known as Secret Garden has reopened under new ownership as the Carriage House, a European-inspired cafe and bar. And on the other side of downtown, Odyssey Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar, closed since a February fire, has reopened and is expanding into Uptown, with sister restaurant Ollie and Park's retiring the eleven-ninety-five pasta special it had been running to keep Odyssey's regulars fed in its absence. Neither is a headline the way Bonanno's return is, but both fit the same shape: something that went dark comes back, usually bigger or better positioned than before.

The Window to Actually Go

None of this matters much if you don't have a reason to be downtown or in RiNo in the next few weeks, so here's the other half of the calendar. Labor Day weekend brings A Taste of Colorado back to Civic Center Park, with dozens of Colorado restaurants and several music stages set up for the holiday. Red Rocks Amphitheatre runs one of its heaviest stretches of the year in September, with Goose opening the month on September 1, GRiZ playing two nights on September 2 and 3, and Brandi Carlile booked for three consecutive nights, September 11 through 13, the kind of run that tends to turn into a singalong by the second song. Between the holiday weekend and Carlile's run, you have roughly two weeks where downtown and RiNo are both busier than usual and newly reopened.

That overlap is worth planning around on purpose. Patio season in Denver has a real, if unofficial, expiration date, and it's this stretch, not October. If Rōmyō, Risica, or Soda Club are open by the time you're already downtown for a Red Rocks show or a Saturday at Civic Center Park, that's the easiest version of trying something new that you'll get all year.

None of this is a reason to move to a neighborhood or a case for buying a home near Larimer Square. It's just what's actually happening in the part of the city a lot of us already call home, told with the names and addresses that make it useful instead of generic. If you're the kind of person who reads neighborhood updates like this because you're weighing what life actually looks like in different pockets of Denver, or because someone in your life is asking those questions, that's exactly the conversation Abram Sloss has with clients every week. Reach out anytime to talk through it.

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